Sphynx Cat Care & Health

SPHYNX CAT CARE

A Sphynx cat has some specific care needs which must be catered for by its human family in order that it can be kept comfortable & healthy.. 

On this page, are a series of headings which intend to cover every aspect of care provision for your Sphynx kitten/cat. We discuss different foods & suggest how to safely make any diet changes. We consider the importance of water & even the kind of bowl it’s put in. We consider cat litters as well as where to place the litter box, then move on to your cats bedding & toys. Moving on we consider the vital importance of initial & annual health checks, vaccinations, microchipping & neutering which includes a discussion relating to the age of sexual maturity & what you can expect from an un-neutered male or female cat should you decide not to neuter.

All information given on this website is from my own experience gained from caring for my own Sphynx cat & all the other cats I've been so fortunate to love care for during the last almost 40+years. I am neither a pet nutritionist nor am I veterinary trained. If you have any concerns with your kitten or cat Sphynx or not, always seek the advice of a veterinary professional. I have learned so much from other Sphynx cat owners & owe them a debt of gratitude for their guidance & mentorship especially in the early days of my breeding activities. I keep on learning every day.

There's a lot of information on this page. I sincerely hope you will find it to be invaluable.

FOOD & WATER

The Sphynx cat has a higher metabolic rate than other cats & needs access to high-quality food which will provide them with sufficient calories & nutrients to keep them healthy & keep their energy levels up.

You should expect your Sphynx cat to need slightly more food per day than other breeds of domestic cat you might keep. They do tend to remain slim by nature but will put on weight more easily once neutered. Whatever breed of cat you keep, over-feeding is not recommended. Keep your cat lean for their optimum health (thus helping to keep vet bills down).

Water First

Your cat must have access to plenty of clean, fresh water to encourage adequate hydration. Encourage drinking to protect the health of the kidneys & promote good health throughout life.

Your cat needs only water & must not be given cows milk to drink. Even as a treat.

In the wild, a cat does not eat in the same place that it drinks. Ideally you should aim to keep your cats water source(s) & feeding station separated from one another.. 

Many cats prefer to drink from moving water.  A pet water fountain is useful.

I discovered Noodle likes running water however she was choosing to ignore the fountain I had provided & instead would source her clean water from the toilet bowl. I once discovered, I made sure to keep toilet lids firmly closed.

She would also jump up to drink from the tap if thirsty when hearing me running water in the bathroom or kitchen & she had no qualms over sticking her head into a glass of water or squash I may have.  The best way I have found to ensure she drinks as much as possible is to place several water sources around the house as well as her fountain all of which I clean & refill daily.

Bowls

Bowls used should ideally be either made from ceramic or stainless steel. You should avoid plastic containers and bowls as these encourage feline acne (blackheads and cysts) around the face/chin/muzzle making the issue, if your cat is a sufferer, worse.

• Water (and food) bowls must be washed daily in hot soapy water then rinsed well. 
• Don't just rinse & refill

Taking Home & Feeding a New Kitten/Cat

A new kitten will have been fully weaned by its breeder. Weaning means it will no longer be reliant on the mother for milk & is now wholly reliant for nutrition on the chosen cat food.

Which Food?

Naked Sphynx Cat Hampshire kittens are weaned onto a raw food diet. We use Natures Menu kitten for kittens & Orijen for our adult cats. . 

Food Change?

Should you prefer to not feed raw food & wish to move a kitten purchased to a diet of wet food pouches/cans only, a dry food only diet or a mix of both (a dual food diet), or if you wish to change the food to another brand; the new & old foods must be phased in/out slowly gradually using transitioning. Advice on this is found on our dedicated page but change ratio examples are also provided further down the page. During any food change watch your cat carefully - in particular its output - to ensure there are no issues.

Food choices 

With so many brands of cat food to choose & a huge marketplace, your choices are wide & varied.  Whatever diet type & food you choose, a Sphynx cat has a higher metabolic rate & needs to receive a high-quality food with a slightly adjusted daily amount. .

Diet Types

Wet Food Diet:

Commercially produced complete nutrition pouched or canned foods should be fed at set meal times with the daily portion size based on the cat's age & weight.  The recommended daily allowance (+ a little) should be split & fed at timed intervals - twice or three times per day. 

Wet foods can be fed as a complete diet or they can be part of a dual diet when fed along with a dry kibble.

Wet Food safety:

Uneaten or refused food should be taken up. It can be stored covered in the fridge to be offered at the next meal time. Once offered a second time, if refused, it must then be disposed of.

• Wet food cannot be left down as it will attract flies & rot.
• Wet food can cause wastage.

Dry Food Diet:

Commercially produced complete nutrition dry foods can be fed on a ‘free feeding’ basis or if you prefer it, a timed basis. They are very suitable to be used in automatic feeders in this way which I have found are very helpful in controlling over eaters & helping with weight loss.

Dry food can help keep a cat's teeth & gums clean & healthy by breaking off plaque during the crunch/chew action.

Dry food does not attract flies & so can be left down for a cat to graze or free feed.

Cats fed a dry food diet require more water than cats fed raw or wet foods diets.

Dual Food Diet:

This diet is based on the use of commercially produced wet & dry food. On this regime wet food is offered in portion appropriate sizes at set times per day & a measured portion of dry food is generally left down for grazing between meals or fed as one of the timed meals.. The wet & dry food portions would need to be adjusted down from those recommended for a cat on a wet or dry only routine so as they do not become overweight.

BARF Food Diet:

BARF has gained in popularity as a feeding regime for cats (& dogs). The acronym BARF means Biologically Appropriate Raw Food, (or Bones & Raw Food). Raw food contains muscle meat, sinew, offal & bone. It can be minced & ground down for easy feeding & eating or it can be fed as chunks of meat/fish. As a feeding regime BARF closely resembles the kind of food that a cat in the wild would naturally be consuming. This is the food a cat has evolved to be eating & therefore is considered Biologically Appropriate

Another way cats are fed is Whole Prey. This is BARF but contains vegetable content (such as would be in the intestines of prey species, as well as fur & feathers. Whole food is offered commercially produced as well as farmed whole prey items such as rabbit, day old chicks etc. 

Cats fed on BARF must not be given commercial kibble or wet foods as a supplement. The gut enzymes used to digest raw foods are very different to those needed for commercially prepared processed foods (such as kibble and pouches/cans) & will cause your cat to suffer from severe digestive illness.

Once upon a time raw feeding was for the very committed pet keeper simply because getting hold of the right quality meat & bones was not easy added to which  the task of preparing it correctly was painstaking & arduous. However, BARF food is now widely available, prepared & frozen & can even be delivered to your door making it a much easier feeding option to choose. The frozen food tubs (or nuggets) are defrosted overnight & once thawed the food is fresh for up to 4 days when stored correctly in the fridge.

How to feed:

BARF food is fed on a timed mealtime basis.

Home made:

If you are prepared to handle blood, meat & bone & wish to make your own BARF foods, meat must be carefully sourced. A butcher is not recommended. The meat they sell is prepared and sold with a view to it being cooked for human consumption, a process which would kill any surface bacteria which would still be present if fed raw to your cat.

I recommend if you do choose to make your own that you follow a suitable recipe ensuring that you have the balance of meat and bone correct & that you add all appropriate supplements for optimal health.

Considerations - pro's and con's to BARF feeding.

Much healthier diet & appropriate to an obligate carnivore.

Must be fed at set meal times.

Less frequent, less smelly stools

Must remember to thaw food in time & handle raw meats appropriately.

Raw foods cannot be left down  -  it will attract flies, dry out & become rotten & unpalatable. 

There can be lots of food wasted if you put out too much or do not use up all that has been thawed. 

BARF food that has thawed cannot be re-frozen if it has been refused. 

If meal is unfinished (or refused) at a set meal time & hasn't been down too long, the food can be taken up, covered & stored in the fridge. It can be offered at the next set mealtime but if uneaten a second time it must be disposed of.

FOOD CHANGE WARNING

I cannot stress this strongly enough; Abrupt changes in food/diet can cause your kitten/cat to become very ill very quickly. Diarrhoea can dehydrate a small kitten in a matter of hours and may even cause its death. A blockage or incorrectly digested food in the digestive tract can cause constipation and can be fatal.

Making a Diet Change

If you wish to make a change from a cat being fed with wet or dry to a BARF diet you MUST MUST MUST research this very carefully. I strongly suggest that you seek the advice of a pet nutritionist before making any changes. 

A change to BARF feeding should not be carried out if your cat is pregnant, lactating or recovering from illness.

Whether changing to another brand or phasing out a food type, whatever the age of the feline the change should be done over several days. 

During & after the change process you should keep a close watch on your cats eating & drinking as well as their output to make sure they are no problems occurring.

The example below is a guide to making a food change with a schedule of 10 days. Here the food being removed is reduced by 10% each day while at the same time increasing the quantity of the new food by 10%.

• Day 1. 90% regular food or food being phased out to 10% new food or food being retained.
• Day 2:  80 - 20
• Day 3: 70 - 30
• Day 4:  60 - 40
• Day 5:  50 -50
• Day 6:  40 - 60
• Day 7:  30 - 70
• Day 8:  20 - 80
• Day 9: 10 - 90
• Day 10: 100% change

Should the kitten/cat be experiencing any difficulty in accepting/tolerating the change and there are no health concerns present you could try a longer change over phasing the change over a longer period of 20 or even 30 days. In that case, for a 20-day change, you would feed day 1 (in the example) for 2 days then the day 2 example for the next 2 days etc. For 30 day change, you would use a 3-day phase over pattern.

Another alternative would be to phase in/out making smaller 5% alterations. You can do this more slowly by remaining at each change form2 or 3 days before the next adjustment.

A healthy adult cat might cope (brand only NOT commercial to BARF) with a faster change made over 7 days in which case the ratios are:

• Day 1 & 2: 75/25% 
• Days 3 & 4: 50/50% 
• Days 5 & 6: 25/75% 
• Day 7 onwards 100% 

Always watch your cat carefully over change days & afterwards monitoring their eating, drinking as well as their output & always pay attention to the warning given in red text above & below in this article.if you cat experiences issues, stop, back track to the ratio that they were last comfortable at & allow a few days to re-settle, then move forward again more slowly. 

Removal of wet food to a dry only diet

If your kitten/cat has been on a dual or wet-only diet & you wish to dry feed be this a free feeding or timed meal basis always make sure the dry food chosen is a complete nutrition food of high quality.

Bear in mind kittens/cats eating wet food will have acquired some of their daily fluid needs from that wet food so when a change is made to dry food only more water will be required per day. You should always ensure that your cat has access to clean fresh water.

An example of a schedule to phase out wet food to feed dry only is given below. In the example given the assumption is that the cat has been eating 1 pouch of wet food per meal. You can choose to free feed or you may feed dry as a timed food. What you do with the dry will depend on your wishes & desires for your cat & reasons for making the change.

• For 3 days serve 2/3 of the pouch & supplement this with the dry food.  If you wish this can be left down to graze (free-feed) or offer it for a set time, then remove. 
• On day 4 reduce the wet to 1/2 a pouch per meal & feed this amount for the next 3 days supplementing still with the dry food.
• On Day 8 feed 1/3 of a pouch per meal for another 3 days. The dry ration should be offered now before the wet food if being timed fed or alongside if free fed. 
• On day 12 stop giving wet food. 

During the change to remove wet food, your cat your cat is highly likely to beg you for food especially at the times when he/she would have been given their wet food meals.  Don't be tempted to fill the gap with titbits from the kitchen or cat treats. If you are going to succeed you must ignore this begging. Try instead to distract your cat with play. 

If the 12-day programme is not for you, consider making the phase-out more gentle by prolonging it over more days reducing by a tablespoon full of wet food at a time.

Removal of dry food (this is not recommended)

If your kitten/cat has dry food -  is fed on a free-feeding basis - it’s part of a dual food (wet and dry food) or has a dry food only diet & you wish to introduce a wet (canned or pouch) food this change should be done slowly & gradually in order to avoid an upset tummy. See warnings given in red text above and below.

If changing from dry food only to wet food only:

Always choose a complete wet food of high quality.

Begin by giving just a teaspoon of complete wet food at morning & afternoon feed times. These must be set timed feeds as your cat will come to expect & need his/her food at these times. Leave free fed dry food available but dispense less of it as is appropriate to avoid excess calories being consumed. 

Once your cat is enjoying the wet food & eats the teaspoon amount can be gradually increased on every third day by 2 teaspoons per meal. You may note that the mealtimes are anticipated & your cat will start to ask you for the food. Keep an eye on their stools to ensure their tummy is coping with the change.

Below is an example of how to introduce a wet food to a cat that has been on dry food only

• Days 1-3: Feed 1 teaspoon of wet food twice a day at the chosen set meal times. Leave dry food down.
• Days 4-6: Feed 2 teaspoons per set timed meal. Leave dry food down.
• Day 7-9: Feed 3 teaspoons per meal. Leave dry food down.
• Day 10,11 & 12: Give 5 teaspoons per meal. Leave dry food down.
• Day 13 - 15 give half a pouch for each meal. Leave dry food down.
• Day 18 if your cat has been clearing the half pouch you can increase the amount of food dispensed until you have reached the recommended food intake of wet food split over the 2 set mealtimes per day. 

• Never overfeed your cat.
• Keep to the set meal times
• Never allow your pet to go without food for long periods unless under veterinary advice.

During introduction & change keep an eye on the litter tray output paying attention to the solidity and appearance of the stool as this is a good gauge to your pets' health & tolerance of the new diet regimen.

Once the wet food diet has been is established & is being well tolerated you may already have noticed that your cat is eating less of the dry food kibble. If you are set on phasing it out, now it is time to slowly reduce how much dry kibble you dispense. Removing dry food is not recommended as it offers your cat many benefits.  

Kibble cons...

• Kibble helps to keep teeth clean
• Allows a free fed cat to feed when it is hungry
• Hassle free
• Does not attract flies or vermin

Health Warning

• If at any time you notice loose stools, blood in the stool and/or diarrhoea stop the process and back-track or make them much more slowly so that you are making any changes over allowing more days between adjustments

• If worried about your kitten/cat at any time you must seek advice from your own vet.

• Never make changes to the diet of a pregnant or lactating cat.

Dry Complete Cat Food

One advantage of dry food is that it will not go off or attract flies. This makes it safe to leave down for your cat(s) to feed on day & night remaining palatable & avoiding waste - a lot of which does not apply to wet or BARF food. 

The hard crunch of dry food helps to keep a cats teeth & gums clean healthy. Bad teeth are a major issue for many cats so having dry food only or including it as part of a dual food diet in commercially fed cats is of high value. 

A cat must ALWAYS have plenty of clean, fresh water available at all times. A cat fed on a dry food only diet requires more water.

Begging & Overfeeding

Don't ever be tempted to feed your cat more than is recommended for breed, life-stage & weight. Even if they ask nicely. Even if they are bothersome in their insistence. 

If your cat knows that by meowing long enough that you will crumble & give in he or she will know to keep up their begging. 

If you are feeding treats, their equivalent calorific value should be deducted from their main food. as the main food offers them their important nutrition, treats should be just that - a treat! 

Be Clean & Food Safe

• Wet or BARF food must always be taken up after each feeding.
• Uneaten wet or BaRF food can be stored covered in the fridge & offered at the next set meal time.
• If it is not eaten when offered a second time, it must be disposed of. 
• Thawed BARF food cannot be refrozen.
• Wash bowls, dishes & utensils daily in hot soapy water rinsing well.

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CREATURE COMFORTS

Bedding

Vet bed, snuggle blankets, fleece, covered cat beds, igloos, caves, snuggle sacks. The pet care market is flooded with them. Your Sphynx will love them all so go for it - I know I do!

Bedding should be washable & laundered regularly. You'll notice it will soon acquire a dull brown stain if it’s favoured by your Sphynx as their skin oils transfer onto the fabric.

Your Sphynx cat is a heat seeker & so needs the extra warmth that other felines have.  A declining temperature will not be well tolerated. He/she will probably like to be under the covers at night & they may even decide to use you as a heat source in the same way he/she did the mother & his/her siblings.

If you choose to provide your pet with an electric pet heat mat (see products page) you must ensure that it has at least two covers to protect their skin & that your kitten/cat can get off & move away from it to regulate their temperature if they become too warm.

Clothing is an option if you like that sort of thing for your pet & certainly are a good idea if your home tends to be colder or draughty. Our favourite clothing has been self-knitted or purchased on Etsy. See Product Recommendations page

Scratching Posts

Provide scratch posts or scratch mats in several areas of your home. Keep an eye on where your cat likes to scratch & if this turns out not to be something you would like scratched (furniture for example) then provide an additional scratch mat or carpeting right in that area which will help to deter them from using your precious furniture, walls or carpeting. There are also several products available designed specifically to protect furniture from the assault of cat claws. 

Scratching is vital to your cat helping to keep their claws healthy, removing damaged areas & making sure they are sharpened ready for the hunt. It also provides essential exercise for them. As they scratch, scent glands on their paws deposit pheromones onto the scratched area. Scent marking serves as a signpost to mark their territory to them & other cats.

Toys

Plenty of these will be used by a Sphynx cat who is curious, agile & playful. My advice is not to go overboard right away though. Kittens will be more than happy with the cardboard from an empty loo roll or a screwed up piece of paper. 

As your cat plays see if they prefer to be a Pouncer, a Chaser, a Hunter or a Climber & then cater to its favoured activities when buying for the most fun.

Just as with bedding, there are loads of toys designed for your cat & its kingdom.

If you have lots of toys, try putting some away using just a few at a time, then rotate them as this will help to keep your cat interested in using them. Spraying toys with a catnip or valerian also helps to refresh their interest as most cats go nuts for these chemical compounds.

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BATHING & GROOMING

As I've mentioned here & elsewhere on this website, Sphynx cats have some very particular care needs which other cats don't. Along with their higher metabolism & the need for more calories & of course them having no fur & therefore needing additional warmth, perhaps the most odd, is the need for a Sphynx cat to have a regular bath. It sounds peculiar of course because everyone knows that cats absolutely detest water!

Do cats hate water?

Cats are well-known not to like water avoiding rain & refusing to go out in such weather. Luckily, since Sphynx cats need a routine regular bath, they are often able to happily accept having one. Or at least to tolerate it. From very early on in their lives Sphynx kittens have been encouraged to tolerate water & having a bath helping them to feel safe with their owners care.

A caring & reputable breeder will have been bathing the kitten at least fortnightly from early on in its life & so your new Sphynx kitten will already be getting to grips with the whole not detesting water thing. Treats have been used to help this ‘feel good’ association & many Sphynx cats even come to thoroughly enjoy their baths. 

A rescued Sphynx may be a bit more of a challenge if regular baths have not been continued. If by some chance you rescue a Sphynx cat you may well find that you will need to work patiently with them to reintroduce them to the experience of the bath routine.

While some sphynx cats can learn to very much like baths, it is also true that others don't. Sometimes we settle for tolerate grudgingly & my experience so far with every cat has been very firmly in this camp though I try hard to convince them otherwise,.

As with all anything, just a few Sphynx cats absolutely will not take a bath & their humans end up resorting to flannels in efforts to keep their skin healthy.

Why exactly does a Sphynx cat need a bath?

All cats no matter the breed, secrete oils from their skin. This is sebum just like we produce from our skin too. The job of sebum oil is go lubricate & it helps to maintain the skin forming a barrier to keep out nasties. 

Furry cats groom distributing this oil so that it is coating each individual hair protecting & conditioning it in the process.  A Sphynx cat doesn't have the same kind of hair nor the need to do all this grooming. The oil has nowhere to do & so build up & sits on the skin where is clogs & blocks pores where it can cause infections or make the skin unhealthy. Their regular bath therefore removes that oil before it can cause problems.

Sphynx owners know that the oil transfers onto the fabrics & furnishings in the home even with a regular bath & is especially noticeable  on light coloured fabrics or surfaces where the cat spends most of its time.  
Effectively managed, these resting places around your home are easily protected by using washable coverings such as a pet blanket or throw which can be laundered regularly.

Some mucky individuals for some reason seem to produce more oil than others do. This is not fixed however by giving them more frequent baths. In fact, bathing them too often would encourage more oil to be produced making things worse. There are special shampoos created to limit sebum production, however veterinary advice should be sought before choosing to use any such a shampoo.

When and how often to bath

A weekly (maximum) or fortnightly/three weekly (minimum) offers the best routine to adhere to with your Sphynx. Choose a time that works best for you both.

How to bath a Sphynx

You will need:

• Warm water in a bathtub - up to chest deep is thought to help them feel calm
• A large jug of clean warm water (kept aside & used to do the last rinse)
• Exfoliating gloves (if using)
• Coconut oil (if you wish to use it).
• Johnson's Baby Shampoo (or another suitable shampoo)
• Cotton wool balls/pads or several dedicated area flannels (face x 2, body x 1, genitals x 1)
• Large (warmed) towel

TIPS

• Bathwater should be very warm - make the bath slightly warmer than you would have your own bath. This is because a cat has a higher body temperature than we humans do & as your Sphynx is by nature a creature with a high metabolic rate & needs to be slightly warmer he/she will appreciate this.
• Water should be a suitable depth. Make sure it comes to chest height as this depth of water, rather than shallower water, is said to calm them.
• Some people swear by coating the cats body with coconut oil before bathing. It is said to loosen the body oils making bathing more effective while also being moisturising to the skin. I have tried this but found it ineffective. Maybe I did it wrong but I’ve not repeated the experience.
• Some people find wearing exfoliation gloves gives them a better grip on a slippery soapy cat. At  the same time a gentle exfoliating action helps to remove stud tail blackheads. The chin area folds are another trouble spot for feline blackheads too. 
• Talk calmly to reassure your pet they are safe with nothing to fear.
• Only take your cat into the warmed bathroom when the water has finished filling. This is because the sound of the water running while they are trapped in a room will unsettle them.
• At the same time as the bath fill a separate large jug with clean warm water. This will be used for a final rinse off to remove soapy residue from their skin. 
• When bathing keep water out of the ears. You can buy Sphynx cat sized shower caps which are helpful here. Ears are always cleaned separately outside of the bath using an appropriate ear cleansing product such as Epi-Otic, Suresolve etc - see Products page. Ear cleaning & claw clipping can be done outside of the bathing routine if you prefer, or as part of it. You can clean ears for example prior to immersion in the water or afterwards while wrapped in their towel. 

Method & Notes for Bathing Routine

1. If you are using coconut oil; massage this, having warmed it up with your hards, into the cats skin from the neck to the tail, down each arm & leg & into the folds of the paws.

2. Next carefully clean the eye area & each side of the face with separate pieces of cotton wool & plain water. If using a flannel use a separate flannel for each side of the face. Wipe the eye area to remove debris paying special attention to the tear duct.  Repeat on the other side of the face. 

Tip: different coloured flannels dedicated to each different area will help you know which flannel is which. Using different cotton wool/flannels on each side avoids risk of spreading any infection present from one eye to the other.

Note: Feline Acne is sometimes noted in the chin area of a cat and without a fur covering this is particularly noticeable in the Sphynx cat. The acne here is caused by the sebum/oil secreting pores becoming blocked causing blackheads and even cysts. It is, in fact, the same issue as is stud tail which is just a different area of the body. Feline acne can be helped by not using plastic bowls for food and water. See advice in Feeding section below.

Soaping the body

I Ind it easier to hold the cat on my towel covered lap to apply soap her. If your cat likes the water you may find you can do this while your cat is in the water. The instructions for lathering up remain the same in or out of the water.

3. Dispense some baby shampoo onto your hand (with exfoliation gloves on if using them) or onto a dedicated ‘body’ flannel. Add some of the warm bathwater to the shampoo surface to make it 'wetter' in your hand so that it is looser & therefore easier to apply. Rub to make a foam.

4. Starting at the neck & chest gently massage the shampoo over the entire body paying careful attention to all the natural skin folds, under the arms & legs & all of the nooks & crannies of each individual toe on each paw. 

5. Press down gently on the top of the toe’s knuckle to expose the claw. This area tends to get quite gunky so the soaping here now will help to loosen it for better removal (which I do after the bath but which you might do in the bath if your cat is one who is happy staying put in the water) 

6. Pay special attention to massaging shampoo into the area at the base of the tail which is very prone to stud tail (blackheads). Exfoliation here is helpful, but be gentle. 

Note: Stud tail - Refers to blackheads and cysts that are caused by the sebum/oil secreting pores at the base of and along the tail. Some Sphynx cats seem to suffer from this complaint more than others. Exfoliation gloves or a flannel used at bath-time can help to gently scrub/lift these blackheads out so give the base of the tail and along the tail a little more of a firm rub if needed.

7. Now use the dedicated genital area flannel, a new wad of cotton wool or your bare (ungloved) hand to carefully was the genital & anus area.

8. If your cat is not already in the water you should now gently lower them back feet first into the water, murmuring calmly to reassure them.

9. Rub the body all over in the water to remove soap scum to clean & rinse the body.

Now is the time to engage in play if your cat is happy too.

10, Getting out: make sure you have the rinsing jug ready & the towel to dry them. Now placing your hand across the chest & under the arms lift you cat & carefully pour the jugged clean water over the entire body to rinse clear…. Then….

11. Wrap your cat in a generous towel (which you might have had on a heated towel rail), drying them all over so that they can avoid becoming cold.

If you do ear cleaning & claw cleaning/ clipping at a different time to the bath, it’s done, you can give them a treat now as a reward.

Remember to ensure your cat is kept nicely warm following their bath.

If however you wish to clean ears & to clean & clip the claws now I would suggest that you keep the towel wrapped & swaddled holding your cat safe in a towelling burrito while you complete these jobs.

Ear cleaning

I find that this is easiest to do when my kitties are swaddled in a blanket or the bath towel & I prefer to do the main ear cleaning treatment right after the bath, but you can do it before or after a bath, or even mid-week - it's entirely up to you.

What you need:

• Swaddling blanket/towel
• Cotton wool
• Cotton buds (if using)
• Ear cleaner (such as Epi-Otic or Suresolve see Products page) 
• &/or PetKin Earwipes (or similar)

Method

• Keeping the head still, drip ear cleaner generously into the ear canal of one ear.
• Massage the base of the ear at the skull so that the cleaner saturates & coats all surfaces nooks & crannies of the inner ear & begins to do to its work. 
• Using cotton wool soak up excess fluid & wipe the moistened ball all around the inner ear ensuring that all crevices including the pocket on the outer edge of the ear are clear of any dirt or debris.
• If you are using a cotton bud as an aid in cleaning NEVER poke it down into the ear canal where you cannot see. Be extra careful because if your cat wriggles you can all too easily cause serious damage & pain.
• Repeat all steps with clean cotton wool (& buds) for the other ear.

If using a PetKin wipes, which I use between baths when necessary - use a new wipe for each ear. With these or with the cotton wool use with EpiOtic I make it into a twist to gently insert deeper into the ear to clean deeper in as well as to get into the creases where dirt/oils can accumulate.

Your cat may shake their head vigorously momentarily when you use the EpiOtic or when you have finished. This is an attempt to rid their ears of moisture. Try to prevent the shake when applying the fluid so that you can quickly massage it in & let it work. Then let them shake when you’re done. 

Weekly Nail Cleaning & Clipping

The Sphynx cat's paw & claws get coated in the same oil present on the rest of body. Just like with Feline Acne or Stud Tail, & dirty ears some individuals seem more prone to sebum production in the nail area than others. The oils' purpose is to protect the skin however under the sheaths & folds of the claw it accumulates heavily creating a thick brown waxy gunky layer which accumulates under those claw cover & needs to be removed. It will have been warmed & loosened by the soaping during the bath & I find that using baby wipes I can now remove this quickly now they are out of the water & towel wrapped. 

TIPS

Much of this oil can be removed or at least softened when your cat is in the bath & this is particularly effective if you have a cat who likes to stay in the water. Your cat might, however, be happier, & you might find it's less hassle, as well as allow you to do a more thorough cleaning job if your cat is out of the bath for a thorough nail cleaning & clipping of any claw that needs it.

• Swaddling your cat will allow you to securely hold your cat so that you can work easily & safely. Extract one paw at a time from your towel/blanket burrito, using the wipe, expose the claw with one hand by gently apply pressure on the knuckle, then on each side of the expose claw pinch it inside of your wipe to rub the clogged accumulation of with the clean claw still exposed, use pet clippers to snip the tip of the claw. Some cat owners claw clip while their cats sleep, others are so docile they will allow this to be done easily without the burrito element. I use this for safety & control but also because they’ve just been bathed they are wrapped warm & snug. 

Claw trimming can feel a bit scary which is understandable, but with practice, it is easy & quick to do. . The aim of clipping is to snip away just the very tip of the claw. 

Trimming after cleaning ensures you can see the quicks more clearly and so this helps to prevent over-trimming.

Always use pet claw clippers rather than ones made for humans because their blades are angled correctly for pets claws & most also feature a guard to help prevent taking too much off. 

Cutting into the quick will cause pain & bleeding. However, if bleeding does happen, having a styptic powdered cotton bud at the ready will quickly stop bleeding by constricting the blood vessels (see instructions for Claw Clipping given below to learn more).

Because we handle our Sphynx cat so much, they tend to be accepting of our ministration but if your cat strongly objects to nail cleaning & clipping you might instead to do one paw per day in the week pro or preceding their bath which may minimise the stressors for you both. If clippers are not comfortable for you & your lack confidence there are rotating files available with different slots suitable to the size of pet creating the right filing angle which gently & quietly file the claw away leaving it comfortable. 

A favourite treat reward given after any work is finished will help your cat associate the procedure with something they really like & want.

Claw Cleaning first

You will need:

• Swaddling blanket (if your cat objects to nail cleaning)
• Cotton wool balls & fluid ear cleaner OR
• Baby Wipes (these work very well to remove the oily gunk)

Method

Press on the top of each toe to expose the claw then with moistened cotton wool or a baby wipe pinch grip the claw between your finger &thumb rubbing the claw firmly on its sides to remove the gunk. Make sure to remove as much as possible checking all nooks & crannies. Either clip/shorten the claw now (if needed) or move to the next toe & repeat cleaning all claws on one paw before clipping whichever feels more comfortable for you & your cat. 

• moisten a cotton wool ball with ear cleaner or use a baby wipe. 
• Lift one arm (or leg) out from the swaddled cat bundle holding the paw firmly but gently with your noon dominant hand.
• As you work across the paw, press down on the top of each the finger/toe, in turn to expose the clam from the sheath. 
• Gripping the claw either side with your dominant hand use the wipe or moistened cotton wool to rub clean the extended claw 
• Make sure to clear out all congealed waxy oil from all the little crevices & from under the flaps in the skin.
• Observe if this claw require clipping & clip as necessary - see below for clipping instructions (or do all cleaning before doing all clipping on this one paw).
• Repeat this process for all 5 fingers (or 4 toes if this is a back paw) remembering that the front paws each include a dew claw.
• Once each finger (or toe) & it’s claw are cleaned you can easily see the quicks & so can avoid cutting them in error which will cause pain & bleeding.
• If necessary clip the tip of the claw only (see instructions and clipping information below).
• Wrap that paw back up into the swaddling burrito bundle to secure it before bringing out the next & repeating the process until all 4 paws have been done.

Claw Clipping

You will need:

• Blanket or towel to swaddle (if your cat objects to claw cleaning/clipping)
• Pet nail clippers - mine are sprung and have a curling guard which can be used to help prevent over clipping. 
• Styptic Powder
• Cotton bud(s)

Styptic Powder - Stopping Bleeding from the Quicks

Styptic powder is known as the grooming parlour's secret weapon.

I recommend if you re not well practiced in this task that before you begin nail clipping, you  prepare a cotton bud with the sty-tic power so that if needed it is immediately at the ready. Prepare it as follows:

• Moisten the tip of a cotton bud then dip it into the styptic powder. 

In the event that you do accidentally cut the quick:

• Take your cotton bud pressing & holding the tip of the bud to the bleeding for about 2-5 seconds. This is painless & will immediately stop the bleeding. It does this by constricting blood vessels in the application area. 

Clipping Method

• * Prepare cotton bud tip coated with styptic powder as above.
• Swaddle the cat to prevent wriggling enabling a good secure hold.
• With your pet nail clippers held firmly in your dominant hand you will work across the paw one toe at a time pressing down gently on the knuckle to expose the cleaned claw from the sheath so you can easily see the quick.
• Clip off the claw tip only. 
• Don't miss the dew claw.

Accidentally nipping into the quick:

Occasionally accidents do happen. In the event of bleeding, don't panic. Take your styptic powder prepared cotton bud tip and hold it to the cut nail for a few seconds as described above.

At the end of the bath routine

Keep your cat warm and give him/her a few treats as a reward for his/her patience. Treat given each time you bath your cat will help especially with a reluctant cat to anticipate the treat and associate something they want and like a lot with bath times.

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CAT LITTER & TOILETING

Cats are fastidious. They will be distressed if the litter trays/boxes are not kept clean high May make them seek an alternative place to relieve themselves.

The standard advice is to provide 1 litter tray/box per cat +1 if you keep a multi-cat household.

The litter tray/box should be placed in a quiet area so that your cat has privacy.

Scoop and clean your litter box(s) each day & change litter according to the instructions given for your specific brand. But use your initiative. If a brand says it will last a month but it smells & looks bad, change it sooner. I find it is a false economy to buy cheaper litter finding the expensive ones outlast these less pricey counterparts. My own favourites are strong clumping litters as Sanicat or Everclean. 

Litter Types

I prefer cat litter that is compostable/biodegradable. Like most cat owners I have tried many, many, many different kinds both clumping & non- clumping. Ones made from clay, wood pellet, coen ans well ans silicate litters. 

Changing Type/Brand,  Moving the Litter Box or Providing a New Litter Tray

It is helpful with a new kitten or cat coming into the household to put some of the soiled litter from where he/she has come from into the new litter or new litter box. This way your cat will recognise the scent & know immediately where to go. This method can also help your cat to find the litter box if you have decided to move it to a new location &or if you have just moved house.

Toileting & a New Kitten

A kitten should come to you fully litter trained & clean. He/she may have been handed to you with a small supply of litter from the litter tray they have been using (see above paragraph) so that even with all the new experiences & new surroundings he/she is being suffused with they will recognise their scent & will follow this to where they need to go.

Even so, show your kitten where their litter tray is. A good time to show them is immediately after feeding or they have taken a drink. Just take him or her to the tray & pop them on top of the litter. They will recognise their scent from their birth home & with luck will go right away. That said, be aware that accidents do happen with tiny kittens so be patient & kind if they do get things wrong. Your new kitty may have gotten lost & forgotten where their tray is located. 

INDOORS OR OUT?

Most Sphynx cat owners keep their precious pets as indoor only animals. These cats may occasionally go outside.but when they do they will usually be carefully secured with the cat wearing an ‘escape proof’ harness & lead or in a special pet bag or buggy. Those that aren't secure on a leads & are out with their owners completely free will be cats who have been trained to stay close by their owner who trusts them not to run (I am not sure I would ever do this). Some cats may have time outside in warm weather an enclosure called a catio. 

The Sphynx has no fur to keep him/her warm when outside in cooler or wet weather & won't be at all comfortable. They would much prefer the warmth & comfort of home but use of pet clothing might extend the time they  can spend out of doors. In very hot weather their skin is in danger from sun burn & would need the same high degree of protection as would a newly born baby. UV protected clothing offers some protection as does a total sun block suitable for pets but never ever let your pet stay out in hot sun lomg. 

Your Sphynx should always be an indoor living pet. This will safeguard them from accident, harm or theft.

Caring for your Sphynx when outdoors

A Sphynx cat is curious. They could all too easily come to harm if let out alone.

If you wish t0 venture out with your pet, choose a suitable really well-fitting ‘escape-proof’ harness and a leash. There are sellers on who make made to measure harness vests suitable for a Sphynx cat. (see Products page). Please note that no harness is escape prof even if marketed using this wording. 

TIP: When taking your cat out on a leash you should always make it your habit to carry your cat outside away from your door before setting them down. Your cat will enjoy their time outside & being adventurers if they learn to associate the open door with ‘it’s time to go out’ & you’ve allowed them to walk out of her entrance n their leash they will take an opportunity & will make a dash for it. This carrying out of your at will help to prevent your cat dashing for the door each time you need to open it thus reducing the chance of escape or loss. If they have never walked out of the door they will be much less likely to associate an open door with all the fun of being outside. 

I so wish I'd known this tip sooner as my Noodle LOVED my patio with its wonderfully warmed up cement slaps. She would roll around in bliss. I let her walk outside on her leash regularly. However, now each time the door needed to be opened, to take rubbish out, greet a visitor or any other of the dozens of reasons for the door being open, she would slip out which resulted in sometimes lomg patent games as I tried to grab hold of her again. When I moved home, I came to live next to a busy road & she slipped out twice. I very quickly needed to have an extra door installed making an ‘air-lock’ system whereby the outer door is never opened unless the inner door is secure. 

Skin Protection Outside

While they are known as naked the Sphynx does have some hair but it is very short & fine. ive heard people say they are like chamois leather & Noodle who was very bald, was once called rubber! Their nakedness & lack of fur means that their skin is exposed to harmful UV rays just as ours is when out of doors making them just as susceptible to sunburn or skin cancer.

If taking your cat outdoors, always protect their skin using a suitable high SPF sun lotion. This would be  one designed for pets in case they lick it, or in a pinch one designed for babies. Whichever you use, don't stay out for too long, particularly in very hot sun. Sunscreen needs to be replenished regularly & removed after coming back inside. 

You may wish to consider dressing your pet with a sun protection shirt/top (& hat!) made from UV protective fabric. This kind of outfit can often be found on Etsy where it’s possible to have something made to measure. 

Exercise For Your Indoor Cat

A Sphynx cat is energetic & needs stimulation in the form of time with you & aided by some well-chosen toys. Your Sphynx will appreciate all kind of games designed to exercise their minds, muscles & hearts. 

Cat exercise wheels are a perfect solution to indoor exercise providing your cat with fitness which supports long term health & a longer life for your pet. The wheel helps to relieve boredom & can therefore help to curb unwanted behaviours, reduce anxiety & stress & they have also been known to positively support cats who are prone to aggression. In my own experience I’ve found my in heat females use the wheels to manage the frustrations of the high levels of hormone influx. They will often run side by side, the pace being set by the slower cat. 

At Naked Sphynx Cat Hampshire, we have the incredible  Catzami Cat Excercise Wheel which is very stable which some cat wheels have proved not to be particularly when in full-on use. Believe me, the cats can really go fast & the wheel thunders round. A falling wheel would be dangerous, could injure or cause damage. I’ve frequently seen a cat jump off & even another one on while the wheel is in full motion & these could cause major instability in a poorly designed product. 

The amazing Catzami Cat Excercise Wheel is awesome but, like all adequate cat wheels are, it’s large. The wheel needs to be of a size that the cat has plenty of space & is able to run in the correct anatomical position for their spine & legs which a smaller wheel would not accommodate. 

If you’ve not room for a wheel, you can still encourage cardiovascular workouts, playing with chase toys, & if you have stairs use these in a came of chase, such as a ball tumbling down to capture (a trained cat may fetch & bring it straight back!) or having your cat chase a ribbon tied to a wand. Bursts of energy in chasing at toys all mimic the instinct to hunt & capture prey & keep your cat exercised, happy in both body & mind. 

MEDICAL ISSUES, SPHYNX CARE & NEUTERING

Feline Acne/Stud Tail

Some cats (not just the Sphynx breed) suffer from this acne around their muzzle area, described as Feline Acne. Stud tail is the same issue but at the tail end & is caused by the production of sebum, a natural oil secreted by the skin in order to maintain its barrier and keep it healthy. Sometimes the oil causes pores to become blocked causing blackheads (hence the term stud tail) & it can even become infected causing a  painful cysts which may require veterinary attention & even surgery.

Feline Acne appears to be more prevalent in cat who feeds or drink from plastic bowls, & why stainless steel or ceramic is recommended but in all cases, dishes & bowls need to be kept clean with daily washing.

• Always use stainless steel or ceramic feed & water containers.
• Wash bowls daily with hot water & washing up liquid, making sure to rinse well.

Stud Tail removal be helped by using a flannel or wearing exfoliating gloves during the cat’s bath. There are specific shampoos formulated to reduce excessive sebum production, the strongest of which should be used only with veterinary advice. 

Virbac Sebocalm is a shampoo product that is safe for regular use (see Products page)

Fleas

Sphynx cats thankfully do not get fleas & so do not generally require any form of flea treatment. If you have other pets in your home however they do need to be treated regularly & appropriately. 

Never apply a spot on flea treatment to a Sphynx cat as it is poisonous to them.

Worming

A new kitten will come to you having been wormed by the breeder.

Even if you keep your pet indoors & it never goes out it does require regular worming treatment..

For kittens & pregnant or lactating queens I use Panacur either liquid or paste for cats (see Products page) both of which are easy to dose (by weight) and to administer. 

For older kittens & adult cats I use a product called Termaworm which I have on subscription from online pet drug retailer Viovet. Termaworm is their generic own-brand version of another well known cat & dog wormer. What I particularly like is that this tablet needs giving only once every 12 weeks & the subscription means that it arrives in the post at exactly the time it is due to be given. 

Vaccinations

A kitten comes to you from its breeder having had its 1st & 2nd vaccinations given at around 8 & 12 weeks old. An annual booster is then required given by the vet during their annual health check.

Initial Health Check

While the kitten will have seen the breeders own vet at least twice before you take them home, it is your responsibility to also have your own vet perform an initial health check shortly after taking them home. This will assure you that your kitten is healthy & free of illness, injury or disease & reassure you of the quality & wellness of your newly purchased kitten. This visit also will provide you the opportunity to ask questions &/or raise any concerns you might have.

Microchipping

As a pedigree breeder my kittens are implanted with their microchip at the first vaccination appointment. This allows the puncture wound to completely heal while the kitten is within my care. The microchip will  bring peace of mind should your pet go missing or be stolen. It’s registered details will need to be formally released by the breeder allowing the chip to be transferred to you after taking your kitten home.  

As of 2024 it is law that all pet cats in the UK must be microchipped.

Neutering

Naked Sphynx Cat Hampshire cattery is pro-neutering of all cats & kittens who are not intended for future breeding. 

Breeders will not sell un-neutered pedigree kittens except where that kitten is specifically sold to be for future breeding purposes. In such cases buyer who is very carefully considered. Active registered kittens attract a premium attached to the fee.

Neutering of kittens is generally carried out at about 8 - 10 weeks old but if your kitten is not neutered it is important it is done by the age of 20 weeks which is when they are sexually mature. 

The ONLY reason not to neuter a cat is if it is intended for breeding when it has reached a suitable ange (2 years). All other cats should be neutered. Neutering of both sexes is done quickly & easily by your vet at minimal cost & their recovery after their operation is rapid..

Neutering of any cat not neutered by the breeder prior to sale should be carried out by the age of 16 - 20 weeks. Of particular note here is that some recommend not having a female cat spayed until the 20th week however, if you are going to wait until this time she must be protected from any opportunity of mating by ensuring that she does not get out at all & that no entire male cat in residence is able to get to her. This includes any male sibling you may have purchased who has not yet been neutered as he will also have become sexually mature by now. 

Rest assured that while you may not yet have noted signs yet of your female's first heat coming, but you can be absolutely sure all the local tomcats have!

Neutered cats (of both sexes) live longer and are much calmer and happier pets because they will no longer produce the hormones that drive them to mate.

For Owners of Female Kittens/Cats

For the future health & happiness of your pet she should be neutered which in the female is known as SPAYING. This is a simple & quick operation that can be carried out from 8 weeks old. As a female can come into heat & her sexual maturity begins by week 20 it is advisable to have neutering carried out at the earliest possible time.

If you wait too long, it’s possible that while YOU may not have noted the signs of her first calling approaching,  any tomcat will have. If she gets out, or if a resident stud/tomcat gets to her, she can become pregnant before you have had the chance to neuter her & thus you will have a litter of up 8 kittens to deal with in 9 weeks time & those kittens will need your care for at least 12 weeks. 

Not Neutering

At 20+ weeks both sexes can be sexually mature & able to procreate. For a female, this means she will start to have heat cycles the time when oestrus occurs. She may spray mark with urine to advertise her readiness. She will call & be very demanding.  For the male, he will begin to want to wander to find a mate. He will begin to spray heavily chemical laced urine both marking his territory & advertising himself to lead available females to him. 

For a full discussion on a female cat in heat please read my dedicated page about Calling, however, you can read on here for an outline of the process & symptoms in brief.

Heat cycles recur every 15-28 dayes. Thanks to our modern warm & well lit homes cycles are no longer seasonal & often continue throughout the year. A calling will last around 7-10 days & the next can begin again within a just days.

When she is in heat your female is assaulted by hormones driving her to meow loudly (usually more so at night) calling to attract mates to her night & day. She will become truly inconsolable as her hormones rage on.

Additional to howling, just like a male cat, she may spray urine on the walls, carpets, bedding & furniture. The strong smelling spray is full of chemicals sending out the message that she is available & where she can be found.

Her normal behaviour will change.  She becomes more affectionate & pester. Any touch will elicit a 'coo'. & can trigger her body into adopting the mating pose with hips spread & her body lowered this crouch is called the frog pose due to her outline in the shape of a frog.

Her bottom will lift at the slightest touch as if on a hair-pin trigger. Her tail to one side (to give access to the male) she will secrete fluid from her vagina prepare & lubricate ready for sex.

This is relentless. Her crying & all her combined symptoms are very hard to cope with. More especially since she could be sexually mature at as early as 20 weeks & able to produce a litter while still a kitten herself. If she is for breeding you need to wait until she has matured & not mate her until age is a minimum of 16 months old. And that is a lot of broken nights for you & your family to get through!

Finally, the direst consequence of failing to neuter & of failing to allow her to mate is that by allowing this to happen over a prolonged period this can lead to a very serious womb infection called Pyometra; a disease that may even be fatal to her. More details about Pyometra are found on our Heat/Calling page.

Neutering your cat will completely protect her from this dreadful health issue & bring you peace at home by stopping her hormones completely & removing the cause of not only all of those difficult to live with behaviours but also by removing the worry of unwanted pregnancy & kittens. Raising Sphynx kittens is hard work, hugely expensive & not for the faint of heart.

Pregnancy

Gestation in domestic cats is short - just 63-68 days (9 weeks). Litters can be between 1 - 10 kittens each.

The kittens & their mother (queen) must be cared for which means lots of additional high quality food, for kittens there is bath training, cat litter & litter training, weaning & kitten foods. There is worming, vets fees, +microchipping, +vaccinations, +neutering for each kitten plus all/any additional veterinary care as might be required for any complications during pregnancy, the birth or while rearing kittens over 12 weeks. This is a heavy burden of responsibility & a huge financial commitment lasting over 5 months & all costs must be met before even one kitten can be sold. 

An owner must also be aware that the Queen, having given birth, can become pregnant again while she is still feeding kittens so she must be protected from any repeat pregnancy occurring. She needs ample time to recover lost condition since this intensive 5 month period takes an heavy toll on her body.

For Owners of a Male Kitten/Cat

Male cats left entire will begin to mark their territory (your home) by spraying a strong smelling urine containing chemicals to let other cats know this is his patch & signpost females who might be receptive toward him. The urine makes puddles, stains carpets & walls & spoils soft furnishings. The smell is impossible to remove. 

An un-neutered male will be driven to roam in efforts to find receptive females. These natural desires mean that he can become fractious & unhappy. 

If you have more than one un-neutered male they will fight for dominance & an outdoor roaming male will fight any other toms in the area for territory & the rights to mate.

Neutering for a male is by CASTRATION.

Neutering, if not done by the breeder must be done by 16-20 weeks to ensure he does not begin spraying within your home or impregnate any unspayed female. Once neutered his sex hormones now eradicated mean he will become a more settled contented cat with less health issues to contend with going forwards.